In September 2000 I was asked to join a party of 37 people from across the UK, to take part in the first ever NDCS charity endurance test in the Equatorial Rain Forest in Ecuador. I personally raised just over £3000 and the group as a whole, nearly £84,000. The money was used to help research new equiopment to detect hearing defects in children at an earlier age. Below is an account of what was involved in such a challenge.
After two flights from Gatwick, we arrived 15 hours later in Quito, the capital of Ecuador at 22.30 local time.
Day one
Began with a short flight over snow capped mountains near the Equator followed by 2 hours on a bus. We were then transported 180 miles by speedboat down the Aguarico River. With only one stop en route, it took us nearly 5 hours to reach our base camp, the Aguarico Lodge, where we spent the firat night. This area is deep in the jungle near the border of Peru far from civilisation and only accessible by boat. The tracks that we were to follow, were made by the military ina war with Peru a few years earlier. They still use this area to stop Peruvians entering Ecuador. A small caiman (crocodile) was seen sliding into the river at one stage. Electricity was provided by a generator which was switched off at 22.00 hours. On a visit to the rather makeshift toilet at 03.00, with only my torch for light, I spotted my first Tarantula on the thatched ceiling. It didn't move and neither did I !!
Day two
Up at 5.00 for breakfast and then set offon a 7 hour trek wearing wellies, long trousers and lots of insect repellant in temperatures of 40c and 100% humidity. Came across a dead Anaconda being eaten by ants. Some saw one swimming in the river nearby. Drenched in sweat, we finally arrived on the shore of lake Iripari where 4 man canoes were waiting for us.. We then paddled the 2 kilometres across the lake to arrive at Iripari Lodge where we would stay the night. Not as grand as it sounds. Just an open wooden platform with a thatched roof. No running water or electricity. Water for toilet and showeres was pumped from the lake. I prefered to wash in the lake itself where the water actually felt quite hot due to the high temperatures. After dinner we watched the fish bats skimming the lake catching small fish. Bed was a mattress and a mosquito net.
Day three
Up at 04.45 and washed in the lake before sunrise at 6.00. Followed by a 5 hour trek. Our guide, Raul stopped at one stage and pointed out some ants on a tree trunk. He asked me to eat one. It left and incredible lemon taste in my mouth. Known as "lemon ants", they use the scent to ward off predators.. After lunch was a two hour trek. By this stage we were all suffering from insect bites and some did not manage this.. The pace was beginning to tell. We then returned to the lake for a lesson in canoeing in preparation for the next day. Later when most were asleep, 4 of us, against all advice, decided to embark on our own trek in the dark. It all seemed very different by torch light and actually quite frightening as there seemed to be some animal activity which we could hear but not see. I think our torches must have attracted every insect in the area. We returned to our mosquito nets fairly quickly!
Day four
Was wakened at 05.00 by the strange sound of Howler Monkeys.
Todays test was to canoe across the lakeand then for several miles through a narrow winding creek. It was exceptionally hot, and lots of parrots and kingfishers were spotted.. Only one team manged to capsize their canoe while avoiding a log! After the creek, we came out onto the River Agrico and returned to our original base camp. In the midday heat, six of us, already hot and tired decided to have a game of fotball on the military football pitch!!!! Bit difficult cooling off afterwards. We then transferred by motor boat further up river, where due to the jungle being flooded in the wet season, a 2.5km board walk had been built. We walked this to our next camp, Pacuya Lodge. En route we saw fresh foot prints of Wild Boar and Tapir. Once again, no running water or electricity but a very well used roap swing from a tree into the river! At dusk, I washed and shaved in the river and then watched Kingfishers catching fish. Paul, a fellow Scotsman was convinced a Howler Monkey was answering his call! One of our guides entertained us with a guitar before bed.
Day five
Transferred by motor boat to a Cofan Indian Village where the Indians live as they have always done, by hunting and living from the land.We were not allowed into their village or homes and had to leave our cameras in the boat. Some replica houses had been built next to the village, for us to see how they live. Two of them acted as guides on our trek throught the jungle.This was a long and difficult trek, up and down hills and crossing rivers via fallen logs. It was searingly hot and we did not have enough water with us. After three hours and with only a small sandwich to eat,we were becoming quite dehydratyed on the return journey. Arriving back at the Indian village, we unwisely drank from the village pump. The water had a terrible metallic taste. The local women and children (and their dogs) came out to greet us and sell us their wares, ranging from blow pipes and bows and arrows. They use the arrows, dipped in the blood of Poison frogs to hunt for monkeys and wild boar. One of them gave us a demonstration of how they shave, using twine from a tree. They pointed out Tamarin Monkeys to us. We transferred to our next camp, Lincocha, by which time I was blaming the water for feeling feverish.
Day six
A few people by now were feeling unwell. We canoed upstream to an observation tower which took us above the canopy. We then canoed, suffering blistered hands from the wooden paddles, for several miles in a tropical rainstorm to the Flotel, which is a passenger boat anchored in the river and used as a hotel. Luxury!! Beers were available but I was feeling so feverish that I had to miss out. The doctor travelling with us, reckoned I was suffering from dehydration and too much sun. I am still convinced that the pump water was to blame.
Day seven
Alarm woke us at 04.00 and after breakfast we set off in the dark by speedboat for the return journey back to Quito. Trekking was now over. There were a few exhausted, insect bitten and feverish people in the boat! We stayed in the Hotel Quito. A most dramatic setting for a hotel, 9,000 feet up in the mountains and built on an active volcano. Fantastic views all around. The airport was nearby and the planes appeared to have to veer round the hotel to get to the runway!. We had dinner and then went to a local bar afterwards. The Europeans working there all carried guns for fear of being kidnapped..
Day eight
A free day in Quito. Most people went to the market. I slept by the outdoor heated pool before doing some shopping. We were told that one lady in our group was ill with a temperature of 102 and another was being taken to hospital. My fever didn't seem quite so bad in comparison. We had our celebration dinner in the hotel at night and the younger ones went back to the bar and stayed up all night as we had to leave for the airport at 03.40.
Day nine
The long flight home. One hour to Panama City. Four hours to Houston and then ten hours to Gatwick. Wait for three hours and then fly to Edinburgh. A lovely dinner was waiting for me on what was my birthday. Tired and happy to be home after a fantastic adventure. My son Connor enjoyed his presents of Pirannah teeth, a genuine blow pipe and bow and arrow!